We sell 1000s of rods every year, inevitably there are accidents and faults but there are some common breakages we see all the time and some simple steps to avoid them that will could keep you fishing and save you time and money down the line.
Rod tips are the weakest point of any rod, generally, if there is a break in the top quarter of a rod it is likely the rod has been bent at a very tight angle, and not on the natural curve of the rod. This is easy to spot and in most cases the manufacturer will be able to tell when they're checking the rod or replacing sections under warranty. Most genuinely faulty rod section will break the first time they are put under load - usually first cast or first fish!
Avoid Common Tip Breakages
*If pulling line through the tip of your
rod, please do so by using the widest angle possible to prevent
the rod tip breaking. Holding the rod by the handle and pulling
the line down towards you from the tip eye can snap the rod tip incredibly easily, as the
angle is too tight and does not allow the rod to bend on a full
natural curve. Be especially careful if you have just threaded the rod eyes and the line is still dry as the guides can grip the line and cause a "ratcheting" effect near the tip of the rod!
*When landing a fish, try to use a landing
net where possible. If a fish is splashing around at your feet
as you try to land it, this puts maximum pressure on the rod
tip, as the tip of the rod is at a very tight angle with the
fishing constantly pulling down on the tip.
*Using a scoop net is a convenient net to use whilst wading in rivers, but they do cause you to stretch to reach the fish you wish to land and are not suitable for every fishing situation.
*LRF rods, Quiver tip rods and other very fine-tipped sensitive rods are designed specifically to improve bite detection, but this also makes them easier to break and special care must be taken when using these rods. Be extra wary of getting your line wrapped around the tip of these rods - a sure fire way of breaking the tip off!
*Be wary of impacts from beaded headed flies, jigs and lures, as well as overhanging branches and snags, all of which contributed greatly to fractures and ensuing breakages. When using swivels or clips on your line take care not to engage any ceramic lined rod guide with them as they can shatter or crack the inserts.
*Casting weights, AFTM ratings and Grain or Gram weights stated on the rod should be followed, overloading and in some circumstances underloading the rod can cause breakages.
*Ensure rod sections are put together correctly at all times, as a slipped section will often crack the rod blank at the female joint. When Spey casting consider taping your rod sections with low tack insulation tape or amalgamating tape and check the rod joints at regular intervals during the day. Carfully remove all tape from the sections at the end of every session to prevent damage to the rod finish from the adhesive.
*If you get into a snag, pulling the rod into a full bend hoping to free the hook, lure or fly can end with the rod breaking before the line breaks or the line becomes free. In a snag try to point the rod at the snag and slowly walk away facing the other direction for safety keeping a low body position so that if the end tackle springs back it should stay low to the ground and not injure you or anyone else close by.
*Please don't set up your rod indoors, as it is very easy to hit the tip
of the rod off the ceiling or a wall etc, which again can cause a
breakage of the tip of the rod which is not usually associated with a
manufacturing fault. If you wish to test or flex a rod do so outdoors
with a line through the guides to allow the rod to flex as it should on
the natural curve of the rod.
Please Note: This is especially common when someone just receives a new rod, and is eager to give the rod a quick flex to test the rod. Please take the rod outside, where there are no obstructions that the rod could collide with.